Minimalist 3% Tranexamic Acid Face Serum – Review

…Continuing from where I left with my last post about healing and clearing my skin from a severe break out.

As I mentioned, I got severe acne attack recently. This is something which happened after almost a decade. I get pimple here and there but this was a severe break out and my skin barrier definitely got damaged. I tried the d’you barrier repair moisturizer to calm my skin down during the first week and it did a good job. I started using the Inkey List Alpha Arbutin Serum from second week onwards which worked great on my skin earlier to treat the dark spots. You can check my review here. Unfortunately I had very tiny amount left in that tube and it’s not readily available in India. So, I searched for something similar from Minimalist and stumbled upon their 3% Tranexamic acid serum. This specifically formulated for targeting melasma/acne scars/hyperpigmentation.

Let’s start with my review –

Price and Quantity:

Minimalist serums are quite affordable. The 30ml bottle of 3% Tranexamic acid comes for INR 649. It is available on Nykaa.

Product Description (As per Brand website):

Tranexamic acid is a new generation molecule that inhibits melanin synthesis by interfering with the interaction between melanocytes and keratinocyte through inhibition of the plasminogen/plasmin system. External skin disruptors, such as UV light or injuries (like acne), cause the keratinocytes in our skin to produce plasminogen, that further start several processes like inflammation, increased tyrosinase activity, melanocyte differentiation, and transfer of melanosomes to upper skin layers. Tranexamic acid decelerates these processes by interfering with plasmin activity, and hence, in turn, indirectly inhibiting melanogenesis. Studies have shown that tranexamic acid, when applied topically, shows results similar to hydroquinone in the reduction of hyperpigmentation. It is also one of the most proven ingredients for the treatment of melasma.

Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid (Radianskin) complements tranexamic acid as it has an innovative mechanism blocking the release of melanin by the melanocytes, an alternative to the inhibition of tyrosinase. HPA reduces melanogenesis by up to 86% and shows a greater depigmenting effect than ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid and arbutin, and equivalent efficacy to hydroquinone without cytotoxicity. The formula also contains exfoliating acids like mandelic acid (3%) and salicylic acid (0.3%) which gently remove the dead cells from the top of the skin, boosting the performance of tranexamic acid and hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, hence accelerating the reduction of hyperpigmentation and melasma.

Ingredients:

Aqua, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Tranexamic Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Mandelic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Acetyl Glucosamine, Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid, Sodium Polyglutamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethoxydiglycol, Salicylic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Phenoxyethanol, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan, Ethylhexylglycerin, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate.

My take on the Minimalist 3% Tranexamic Acid:

Packaging: Standard Minimalist dark glass bottle with a dropper. Nothing to add much here.

Texture and Color: I was quite surprised that the serum looked like a yellow oil when I first took it out. Usually most of the serums except vitamin c ones are white/transparent. I am not sure why the color is such bright yellow but in their official website also the pictures confirmed that it is supposed to be yellow. I also spotted turmeric root extract in the ingredient list. Not sure if that is the reason for the color. However, the texture is very light and blends really well. I just need 3 drops to cover my entire face.

Ingredients: Apart from the 3 % tranexamic acid, this serum also contains 3% mandelic acid, 1% HPA (Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid) and salicylic acid as well (not sure about the percentage though). It is fragrance free and also does not contain any essential oil. Tranexamic acids are proven to target hyperpigmentation, melasma and UV damages. Mandelic acid and the salicylic acid, both have exfoliating property which also helps to clear the skin. I am quite unsure about the Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid. In some articles I read that it prevents melanin formation and that’s why works well for hyperpigmentation but some other articles mentioned it can be irritating for eyes/skin. So, it’s important that you do a patch test before applying it on your face. Overall, I think it has a lot of very strong ingredients. So, please check with your dermatologist for suggestion and also if you are using some other AHAs or retinoids, please double check with your doctor if this is going to be too much for your skin.

Did it work for my skin? First disclaimer is that I have used it for only 2 weeks and to actually see results I think I should wait 2-3 months. I will try to update the post to share my final verdict once I am done with a full bottle. For now, I want to mention a few things. I use it only for my night time skin care routine as it has a lot of exfoliants which are supposed to work overnight. When I got severe break out I waited for a week before putting any serum with active ingredients. When I started using the Tranexamic acid, I still had large red pimples on my cheeks but they were no longer painful. I used it for 2 weeks. On the first week, I used it on alternate days and second week onwards I am using it every night. I didn’t use any other serum during this period. After a week the pimples are now tiny brownish red spots although quite visible. There are no bumps or zits on my face. I don’t have any active acne anymore.

I am going to continue to use it till the bottle lasts and will update you with the final results…

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