Product Review, Skincare

Minimalist 3% Tranexamic Acid Face Serum – Review

…Continuing from where I left with my last post about healing and clearing my skin from a severe break out.

As I mentioned, I got severe acne attack recently. This is something which happened after almost a decade. I get pimple here and there but this was a severe break out and my skin barrier definitely got damaged. I tried the d’you barrier repair moisturizer to calm my skin down during the first week and it did a good job. I started using the Inkey List Alpha Arbutin Serum from second week onwards which worked great on my skin earlier to treat the dark spots. You can check my review here. Unfortunately I had very tiny amount left in that tube and it’s not readily available in India. So, I searched for something similar from Minimalist and stumbled upon their 3% Tranexamic acid serum. This specifically formulated for targeting melasma/acne scars/hyperpigmentation.

Let’s start with my review –

Price and Quantity:

Minimalist serums are quite affordable. The 30ml bottle of 3% Tranexamic acid comes for INR 649. It is available on Nykaa.

Product Description (As per Brand website):

Tranexamic acid is a new generation molecule that inhibits melanin synthesis by interfering with the interaction between melanocytes and keratinocyte through inhibition of the plasminogen/plasmin system. External skin disruptors, such as UV light or injuries (like acne), cause the keratinocytes in our skin to produce plasminogen, that further start several processes like inflammation, increased tyrosinase activity, melanocyte differentiation, and transfer of melanosomes to upper skin layers. Tranexamic acid decelerates these processes by interfering with plasmin activity, and hence, in turn, indirectly inhibiting melanogenesis. Studies have shown that tranexamic acid, when applied topically, shows results similar to hydroquinone in the reduction of hyperpigmentation. It is also one of the most proven ingredients for the treatment of melasma.

Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid (Radianskin) complements tranexamic acid as it has an innovative mechanism blocking the release of melanin by the melanocytes, an alternative to the inhibition of tyrosinase. HPA reduces melanogenesis by up to 86% and shows a greater depigmenting effect than ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid and arbutin, and equivalent efficacy to hydroquinone without cytotoxicity. The formula also contains exfoliating acids like mandelic acid (3%) and salicylic acid (0.3%) which gently remove the dead cells from the top of the skin, boosting the performance of tranexamic acid and hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, hence accelerating the reduction of hyperpigmentation and melasma.

Ingredients:

Aqua, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Tranexamic Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Mandelic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Acetyl Glucosamine, Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid, Sodium Polyglutamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethoxydiglycol, Salicylic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Phenoxyethanol, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan, Ethylhexylglycerin, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate.

My take on the Minimalist 3% Tranexamic Acid:

Packaging: Standard Minimalist dark glass bottle with a dropper. Nothing to add much here.

Texture and Color: I was quite surprised that the serum looked like a yellow oil when I first took it out. Usually most of the serums except vitamin c ones are white/transparent. I am not sure why the color is such bright yellow but in their official website also the pictures confirmed that it is supposed to be yellow. I also spotted turmeric root extract in the ingredient list. Not sure if that is the reason for the color. However, the texture is very light and blends really well. I just need 3 drops to cover my entire face.

Ingredients: Apart from the 3 % tranexamic acid, this serum also contains 3% mandelic acid, 1% HPA (Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid) and salicylic acid as well (not sure about the percentage though). It is fragrance free and also does not contain any essential oil. Tranexamic acids are proven to target hyperpigmentation, melasma and UV damages. Mandelic acid and the salicylic acid, both have exfoliating property which also helps to clear the skin. I am quite unsure about the Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid. In some articles I read that it prevents melanin formation and that’s why works well for hyperpigmentation but some other articles mentioned it can be irritating for eyes/skin. So, it’s important that you do a patch test before applying it on your face. Overall, I think it has a lot of very strong ingredients. So, please check with your dermatologist for suggestion and also if you are using some other AHAs or retinoids, please double check with your doctor if this is going to be too much for your skin.

Did it work for my skin? First disclaimer is that I have used it for only 2 weeks and to actually see results I think I should wait 2-3 months. I will try to update the post to share my final verdict once I am done with a full bottle. For now, I want to mention a few things. I use it only for my night time skin care routine as it has a lot of exfoliants which are supposed to work overnight. When I got severe break out I waited for a week before putting any serum with active ingredients. When I started using the Tranexamic acid, I still had large red pimples on my cheeks but they were no longer painful. I used it for 2 weeks. On the first week, I used it on alternate days and second week onwards I am using it every night. I didn’t use any other serum during this period. After a week the pimples are now tiny brownish red spots although quite visible. There are no bumps or zits on my face. I don’t have any active acne anymore.

I am going to continue to use it till the bottle lasts and will update you with the final results…

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Favorites, Product Review, Skincare

The Inkey List Alpha Arbutin Serum | Remedy for Hyperpigmentation| Review

My battle with hyperpigmentation has been quite a struggle. Even though I am quite particular about using sunscreen and maintaining an effective skincare routine, I was not like this when I was in college. At that time, I absolutely hated applying anything on my skin. No skincare, no makeup. I also had severe acne issues, like most teenagers and young adults. Now that I am very much invested into my skincare regime and have a fair idea about what works for my skin, I have been doing a lot of research to find out what actually can help me to get rid of hyperpigmentation. I have tried a lot of natural, homemade remedies but they did not work as much as I expected. Finally, my relentless search led me to a great product to put up a good fight with hyperpigmentation and that product is the Inkey List Alpha Arbutin Serum which contains 2% Alpha Arbutin and 0.5% Squalene. I saw some great results and here is my review.

What is Alpha-Arbutin?

Alpha-Arbutin is a derivative of hydroquinone which has skin lightening properties. Now hydroquinone is banned in many countries due to its potential side effects but Alpha-Arbutin is not banned and it is safe to use everyday. Alpha Arbutin has depigmenting properties similar to hydroquinone. It works on age spots, acne spots and any sort of dark spot. We encounter dark spots in our skin from an enzyme called tyrosinase which is responsible for secreting melanin. The melanocytes cells in our get triggered when the skin encounters UV light for a longer period resulting in freckles and sunspots. Now, Alpha arbutin gets transformed into hydroquinone in our skin over time and it impedes tyrosinase and thus prevents creating any further dark spots and also improves the appearance of existing dark spots.

The fact that Alpha arbutin gets transformed into hydroquinone in our skin, it is less potent than the original hydroquinone and thus does not have much risk of side effects. It is also available without prescription as a topical cream/serum.

In this post, I am particularly going to review the Inkey List Alpha Arbutin Serum which contains 2% Alpha Arbutin.

Price:

This product is not available in India at the moment. I bought it from StyleDotty for Rs 1638 for the 30ml tube. You can get it from a lot of Instagram sellers who source products from UK/US/Canada. It’s original price in the Inkey List website is $12.99. One 30 ml tube should last you for 6-8 weeks as you just need a pea size amount everyday.

Product Description (From the Inkey List’s website):

A concentrated 2% Alpha Arbutin serum to help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and dark spots and keep skin at an optimal hydration level. Derived from the leaves of the bearberry plant, this non irritating serum helps to brighten the skin and improve overall skin tone. Added Squalane helps to increase skin hydration and smoothness.

Targets:

  • Hyperpigmentation
  • Scarring
  • Uneven Skin Tone
  • Redness

My take on the Inkey List Alpha Arbutin Serum:

The Brand: Inkey List is a UK brand which focuses on ingredient driven skincare. Their moto is kind of similar to the Ordinary. They focus on one or two ingredients for effectively targeting specific skin concerns. Their products are vegan and cruelty free.

Packaging: They have a minimal packaging but the serum comes in a tube which seemed very inconvenient to me. Almost every time I take out more product than I actually intended. I would have preferred it to come in a bottle with a dropper. Not sure if they had a scientific reason to package it in a tube. I also saw some leakage issue as I did not screw the cap tightly enough. Overall, I found this tube like packaging quite inconvenient.

Texture and smell: It is fragrance free which I absolutely loved. The consistency is actually watery and not like a gel. In their website the color of this serum was milky white but surprisingly when I received the product it was already oxidized and turned into chocolate brown color. I got to know that a lot of other people also experienced the same and the Inkey list also addressed the issue and clarified that it is totally okay to turn into brown as it contains natural ingredients. It does not impact its efficacy and rightly so, it worked on my skin totally and did not cause me any irritation.

Ingredients: The ingredient list looks solid. I did not spot any problematic ingredient. Water (aqua / eau), Butylene glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, Alpha-arbutin, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Caprylyl glycol, Squalane, Phospholipids, Glycine soja (soybean) oil, Carbomer, Polysorbate 60, Sodium phytate, Glycolipids, Sorbitan isostearate, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Sodium hydroxide, Glycine soja (soybean) sterols, Hyaluronic acid, Tocopherol.

Performance: Now coming to the most important part, did it deliver? Yes, it did. I am writing this review after using it for 6 weeks as recommended and I can see some of my very stubborn dark spots have lightened up significantly. I don’t know if you can see it clearly in the photo, but some of the spots I had were quite prominent but now they have faded at least by 70%. I used to have some red spots around my nose, I can hardly spot them now. I am definitely going to continue to use it. It delivered!

It is very easy to spread on my skin because of its runny consistency. You can use it both at AM and PM. After cleansing, preferably use a hyaluronic acid based product and then after waiting for a minute or so apply the Inkey List Alpha Arbutin Serum. You can apply your moisturizer after this or use you sunscreen as well but just give it some time to fully absorb into your skin. You can skip the moisturizer too because it has squalene in it which also gives the skin the required moisture it needs.

Hope you found this review helpful :)Let me know what you use for hyperpigmentation, in the comments section.

** Disclaimer – This is not a sponsored post.

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